Tuesday, September 15, 2009

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The charm of l'Ardèche (North)


's charm l'Ardeche (North)



L'Ardèche region of France is a little known in our country. The former province of Vivarais, is part of the Rhone-Alpes region. Is located south-east of France, between the Cevennes and the Massif Central, on the right bank of the Rhone. It is a mainly agricultural region with large tracts of vineyards (several wines with appellation of origin) and beautiful forests of chestnut trees. Produces 65% of the chestnuts that are harvested in France. Ardèche chestnut has Appellation d'origine contrôlée.

For location, the climate is mild and sunny throughout the year. The entire region is dotted with small villages "of character." Some of them are classified as "most beautiful villages of France." L'Ardèche has more than 300 villages with their own stories and treasures: more than 100 churches and castles whose foundation stone was erected in middle age.

is a place of stunning landscapes such as Mont Gerbier de Jonc (where the river Loire) Païolive Forest, also called "Forest of the fairies" or Pont d'Arc, in the Gorges de l ' Ardèche, a paradise for lovers of the type of canoe-kayak sport.

Because millions of years ago this region had to be a "fireworks display, there are many caves and troglodyte caves. Deserve special mention for La Madeleine, the Chauvet ol 'Aven d'Orgnac, the latter classified as world heritage by UNESCO.

Regional Natural Park of the Monts d'Ardèche occupies much the territory. This park was created on April 9, 2001. It has an area of \u200b\u200b180,000 hectares. Born on the initiative of farmers chestnut area in order to preserve its territory and promote their heritage. This Nature concentrated around the character of the rural life of its people, an identity strongly influenced by volcanism, an important rural architectural heritage and landscape value recognized worldwide. Between volcanoes and valleys, Montes d'Ardèche is a land of welcome and reunion. It covers the mountainous region of Rhone-Alps, the Massif Central and its volcanoes.


This trip we did the first week of September 2009. Thought, before leaving for Barcelona, \u200b\u200bwhich would make us bad weather forecast so "he puts" the Internet. But you should never ignore the warnings. We enjoyed a wonderful time.
Then I will tell you our impressions and what we saw and enjoyed during the seven days spent in this magnificent place, where people, conscious of being custodians of a priceless heritage and, at the same time, fragile they have to preserve, are so authentic, warm, simple and kind that feels like you are part of their culture and their territory upon arrival.

Roundtrip

.- We left at 7.30. Toll: € 1.36 + € 11.65 up to the Jonquera. Remember to fill the fuel tank before crossing the border. In France, you will pay more expensive. This month of September was between 1.29 and € 1.45. Remember also to rest every 2 hours. The trip will make you more comfortable and your health will thank you.

We take the A-9. At Exit 38 is the detour to go to the Abbey of Fontfroide while, right, we're going through the Etang, in Port-Leucate. Do not fail to look at them from the car. Morning which mirrors shine. Then comes the turn off to Carcassonne. Forget it. You have to follow the A-9. Before arriving Montpellier, in St-Jean-de-Vedas, Toll: 15.30 €.

We approach Nîmes. Here's the turning that goes to Marseille. To continue on the A-9 has to leave and reenter. Watch for signs. It's all very well signposted. Here we take the ticket. Between Exit 22 and 21 cross the Rhone. We are in Orange.Vigilad directed. We take the A-7 towards Lyon.

Near km. 159, right, is the rest area Mornas les Adrets. Take advantage to make a break and admire the strength. It's awesome.

We left the A-7 in Tournon / Rhone and take the D-86 to Andance. Then the D-82 to St-Etienne-de-Valoux. To go to Thorrenc, which is where we decided to spend the night there are signs that the people just get this out. Are 3 km. a tree-lined narrow road that winds alongside the mountain.

Thorrenc .-

Thorrenc is a medieval enclave, an eight homes, 12 registered inhabitants, situated in a basin surrounded by mountains, atop an aqueduct where the railroad passed .

19 years ago that their paths were to spend the last train. Now this aqueduct is part of the physiognomy of the people. Thorrenc is the most peaceful and quiet that I know. For lovers rural environments there is no better place.

There
Auberge, a municipality that opens twice a week, a church and a castle in ruins, many figs, lots of greenery and tranquility to the fullest. To call with the phone, climb the ruins of the castle. Once there, go moving back and forth until you find the right place. In the rest of the people there is no coverage.


Day 2 .- Today we went to St. Clement, for a very special museum and we have recommended strongly. Only 6 km. from our point of departure.

Musée de l'Alembic .-

This museum, which belongs to the family Gauthier, tells the story of a past, gone: The distillers of wine growers and distillers street.
In an area of \u200b\u200b1,400 m2 and in 30 different areas, you can admire 65 wax figures so lifelike that, at some point people will think they are alive. These spaces recreate moments of everyday rural life, as lived then.
The young and the not so young, you can see how their grandparents lived, weather, and only rudimentary means available to them to do things.

Al When entering, you will get a character / robot (also wax) that moves all the muscles of the face, turning his eyes everywhere y. .. until you will wink! He takes care to explain the entire history of the distillery, then go through different rooms, fully acclimated, to see different points in the process of distillation of wine and spirits from the distillery Jean Gauthier, from different fruits and subsequent bottleneck styles. The library is magnificent copper utensils and comes from all corners of France.
On leaving the tent is an exhibition of all the liquors that offers the distillery especially cherished his two specialties: the Williams pear brandy and chestnut liqueur. You can taste these and other specialties like cherry liqueur, raspberry ... and other more exotic as tangerine, green apple, lemon, etc.
can not miss this visit. It is very interesting and ... free!
completely changed the subject and we now turn Peaugres Safari Park, just a few miles.

Peaugres Safari Park

.- This beautiful park was created in 1974. It has an area of \u200b\u200b80 hectares, all within a vast forest, where animals can live at home. There are over 900 animals of 120 different species. This park is unique in offering visitors 2 parks in one:

The first visit with your own car through some marked trails and not the absolute prohibition of open or doors or windows. We can see the animals without any separation between them and us. It is a unique experience. The other part of the park is visited on foot, like a conventional Zoo, but within the forest. Animals have much space and can almost be said to be released.


Lions, through a glass walkway, you can see a few inches. There is a snake cage in an enclosed space where there is also a maze. At the entrance of the visit on foot, a small room where they planned an interesting documentary about the park. Just pass the payment booths (18 € adults), there is a picnic area. It is highly advisable to get food because the visit may take several hours. There is also a fast food restaurant. During 2009, the entry will be free for people visiting the park on their birthday (must show your ID).

By buying tickets will give you a booklet with the hours you are scheduled to give the food a different animal if you like being there time. The park is open 10 to 16 for visits to the 17 car for visitors on foot. It is a place not only for young adults also enjoyed it a lot! Leaving

still going to be time to visit one of the most industrial cities, vibrant and prosperous northern l'Ardèche: Annonay

Annonay .-


This city was built, like Rome, on seven hills and still retains traces of a past steeped in history.
In the Middle Ages was in the way of the great pilgrimages. City hospital and religious, was a meeting and trade between l'Auvergne and the Rhone Valley.

From XVII century industrial vocation led him to be the pioneer in the leather trade and, above all, of the paper. On June 4, 1783, the brothers Joseph-Michel and Jacques-Etienne Montgolfier, descendants of a family of 16 brothers who spent the role since 1692, met in the market of this city to make the first balloon flight history: a Montgolfière. Was made of cloth and paper and was 10 m. in diameter.
Since 2002, this city is classified as Historic Place Aerostatic and the first order week of June celebrates the anniversary by raising a lot of hot air balloons. In Annonay, Ardèche-organized Montgolfière ballooning (minimum one hour) and the price ranges between 210 € and 220 € with Ardéchoise cake and champagne.

Most importantly, the visit is the old city. In the Plaza des Cordelieres is the Office of Tourism. They will give you a little guide printed 4 sheets with which you could see all the old without problems. Above all you have to climb to the castle. The city view from here is unparalleled. In the year 1786 was born in this city Marc Seguin, the inventor of suspension bridges and the steam boiler, which invention allowed the development of the railway industry worldwide. Marc Seguin was smaller cousin of the brothers Montgolfier.
filmed here in 2001 "The Man on the Train" Patrice Lecomte film premiered at several festivals.
For golf lovers, here is near the Golf de Saint-Clair. There is also a luxury hotel and restaurant with all amenities.

3rd.

day .-

Today we planned to visit the town of Tournon / Rhone. You can go by highway or by road. If you have no hurry, I recommend going for the national D-82, to follow the N-86. They are not fast, but the scenery is splendid. Calculate 45 minutes. If there is high traffic, an hour.

Tournon sur Rhone .-

Located at the confluence of the valleys of the Doux and the Rhone, Tournon is a city full of historic houses and picturesque streets. Currently has 11,000 inhabitants. It was founded by the Romans who settled here in order to monitor, from a vantage point across the Rhone Valley. Originally had 12 towers. Hence comes the name of Tournon, which means "tower." Currently, only two and, on top of one of them is the image of the Virgin.


Tournon has
a medieval castle built in 1332, that killed the son of Francisco I. Was owned by the lords of Tournon and passed, by inheritance, the Rohan family. Since the year 1809 is owned by the Municipality and today houses the Museum of the Rhone.
In this city, the engineer Marc Seguin, the inventor of the steam boiler, built, aided by his four brothers, the world's first suspension bridge made of tubular iron rope.

Desgradaciadamente, this wonderful bridge over the Rhone was destroyed in 1965 to promote inland waterway transport. This can be seen in the photo was built in 1849 and is similar to the original.
In this city offers the possibility to make a trip by train with Mallet type steam locomora. This is the "Petit Train du Vivarais" This line was built between 1886 and 1891, between Ardèche and Haute-Loire. This line, entirely private, Tournon through a tunnel and crossing an iron bridge over the Doux. Go through the Gorges du Doux and many nice places. You can also see "the color turns pierre, a huge stone, according to legend, turned every 100 years. After going through the "line of latitude 45 degrees (same distance between Ecuador and the North Pole) comes Lamastre and makes the journey back by Boucie-le-Roi. This trip has been suspended temporarily due to some restructuring work, but we were lucky to do several years ago, the first time we visited l'Ardèche. Within
of the city of Tournon, in front of the Church, is the Eden Parc is a private park. You are in a private home. You have to make an appointment in advance at the Tourist Office, which is in the Hôtel de la Tourette, near the river and in the heart of the city.

Eden Park .-

have to knock on the door like a particular house (it's a private house). After climbing the stairs that take you across the floor and the living room you are, like a miracle, within a yard so relaxing sounds like you're in another world. This beautiful place was the garden of the former convent of Notre Dame, within it, is one of the 12 towers surrounding the city of Tournon.

The current owner is a lover of ancient sites and is redesigning the place with exquisite taste. When I bought was completely full of weeds and fallen trees. It has a hectare of land and is acquiring all the beauty that must be beginning. It is surrounded by walls and small bridges and in the top called "Belvedere" you can admire an unparalleled view de Tournon and the Rhone. We left excited.

Now we go to the D-534 to head to a town steeped in history

Boucie-le-Roi .-

This beautiful village is located on the bottom of a beautiful green valley in the Doux river bank, between Tournon and Lamastre.
In 1291 the king Philippe le Bel (Philip the Fair) has formed a justice court to assert its power in the Upper Vivarais. For this reason I think a real town that depended directly on him. Thus was born Boucie-le-Roi.
This place was profoundly marked by Pierre Vigne, a missionary from Vivarais. He arrived here in 1712 and founded the Order of the Holy Sacrament in 1715. Pierre Vigne built with the help of villagers, Stations of the Cross called "The Great Journey" that still follows all Good Friday.

Strength and the medieval bridge are enrolled in the supplementary inventory of historical monuments since 1927. Leaving

Boucieu-le-Roi and take the D-578 that will carry us Lamastre. Come to visit another very tied to this land: La Ferme du Châtaignier (The Chestnuts Farm).

Lamastre At the entrance on your left and next to the gendarmerie, found a small road leading to Le Crestet. When making the turn you will see a sign color putting green "La Ferme du Châtaigner." We go up the mountain and, after about 5 km. find the place.

Châtaignier .- La Ferme du

Located in the middle of the forest, chestnut trees and olive trees. Grange belongs to the family for generations.
We entered the farm shop and were amazed at the amount of products that can be made with chestnuts. No flour, jam, cream, beer, liquor, ice cream ... and much more. This farm also produces jams and preserves made with vegetables and fruits around to provide work for its employees during the time in which the chestnuts are maturing.
The farm covers an area of \u200b\u200b24 hectares. The chestnut trees are huge, much larger chestnuts which we are accustomed to seeing. It is the variety of the Ardèche, controlled denomination of origin since 2006.
Aware of the economic and cultural richness of the chestnut, farmers were grouped in order to recognize the variety Ardéchoise as Chataigne d'Ardèche "(la Reine des Chataigner) which is the most precious of all France.
in this region are grown chestnuts from the Middle Ages, but it was the Romans who introduced it in large areas. In France there is more than 200 varieties of chestnut. 65 of these varieties are specifically the Ardèche.

brown
The process is very complex. When the plant is 2 years and an approximate height of 1 meter, a graft is performed to produce a variety Ardéchoise. The chestnut takes 8 to 10 years to produce fruit. To produce chestnuts "butt" takes 25 years. Mr Grange explains that a generation plant to the other: The chestnut trees planted his grandfather began to enjoy his father. Those who planted his father are now producing more chestnuts. Those who are planting it will be for your child. On the farm there are chestnut trees over 300 years.

We left this place happy, having tried various specialties obtained from the chestnut. This forest of chestnut trees is a marvel. It is a must if you visit l'Ardèche.

From Lamastre headed by the D-533, a Désaignes, village "character," only about 10 km. where we

Désaignes .-

Désaignes is a beautiful medieval town, which enjoyed its peak in the Middle Ages through the development of trade. He became one of the most important cities of the Ardèche, with over 2,500 inhabitants. Today, only supoblación reaches 500. This old town has preserved its medieval style. It is surrounded by walls and still has three monumental gates.

Walking through its streets is like going back to the Middle Ages. Do not fail to see the church, the seventeenth century, the fortress of the XII century and L'Auberge du Lion d'Or. You will find many houses in the Gothic style and a fifteenth century castle.

In the same square where forsake the car, next to the Porte du Bourg de l'Homme, is the Office of Information and Tourism. Do not hesitate to enter. They will provide a sheet with the need to avoid itineratio miss anything important. Take the time to sit in a fountain in a plaza ... Enjoy the environment. I think it will pass a good time.

Go back to the D-533 and in St. Agrève we take the D-120 that will take us to St-Martin-de-Valamas. Here, and long has been home to jewelry designers and jewelry quality. Still there are 3 craft workshops and designs that come out of their hands will be there, then in the shops of the big brands. If you like chocolate and you have even a little time to see things you arrive until you Cheylard. Besides having more workshops in jewelry, is a chocolate that is still handmade chocolate. A further more, the town is medieval and the Chateau de la Chèze is awesome.

As you can see, l'Ardèche is so vast and has so much to see that in this part of the blog, speak only of the North. To see and enjoy it you need a week.

Read: The charm of l'Ardèche (South) . You'll be surprised. There are still three days of our trip y. .. The South is awesome! With all my love Magda























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